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Rear Window Switch & Aux Power Socket
I sometimes sleep in the back of my truck when camping or on weekend 4x4 missions and one of the things I find awkward is that you cannot get in and out via the back door becuase you cannot easily put the electric rear window up without climing through to front, putting the ignition on and using the switch in the front. I decided to fit another rear window switch internally in the back of the truck that would work with the ignition on or off.
At the same time I decided to mount an aux power socket (cig lighter type socket) in the back so I could power or charge things like lamps or my power inverter etc.
Tools/Equipment Needed (Rear Window Switch)
- Voltmeter
- Electric Window Switch
- Wire & crimps/connectors
- Wire cutters, crimping tool, pliers
- Cross-head screwdriver
- Socket set
Additional Tools/Equipment Needed for Aux Power Socket
- Aux Power Socket
- Inline fuse holder and fuse.
- Pref. a hole-saw
I generally get all my electrical supplies from Vehicle Wiring Products, if you go to Halfords or places like that you will find you can only get switches that looked dated in the 1960's, poxy little reels of wire or tiny packets of crimps for loads of money. I decided to mount both the switch and the power socket in the left-hand rear cubby-box, this way they will both be hidden and out of the way until needed. First I needed to remove the rear trim panel on that side to gain access to the cubby-box. |
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The cubby-box is retained by two plastic clips that can be a real pain to get out. If you can get something behind you may be able to get the out or just use brute force. With the box out I just used a drill and saw to cut holes in the side. A hole-saw can be used here to cut a hole for the aux socket but I was not too bothered about the accuracy of the holes as they won't be seen anyway. |
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For the aux power socket I ran a wire direct to the battery under the carpets and under the door trims right up to the passenger footwell and into the engine bay through the existing rubber grommet. I punctured a hole in the grommet and actually fed the wire from the engine bay, then pulled through from the passenger footwell. Then you can seal the grommet again with a bit of silicone sealant. I used 17 amp wire and a an inline fuse holder with a 15 amp fuse just before it connects to the positive terminal of the battery. The earth terminal of the power socket I just connected to the chassis near the box. |
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When you remove the box you can see the relay box and wires/plug for the rear window. I used a voltmeter to identify the wires that are connected to the rear key (as that works with or without the ignition on). I disconnected the plug and took off some of the protective tape so I could see the wires and connect to them with wire connectors. I only needed to connect 3 terminals of the window switch: Middle (earth) terminal - red wire with black tracer. Top (up) terminal - green wire with red tracer. Bottom (down) terminal - green wire with yellow tracer. Note: the wires on the loom are very thin so if you have use the normal plastic wire connectors make sure they have pierced the wires ok. |
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Disclaimer
I have taken a lot of time to ensure the information above is correct, but please remember vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a vehicle. No liability can be accepted for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given above.
If you think any information is incorrect, confusing, misleading or incomplete, please feel free to contact me.
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